Exploring Route 66 in California and Arizona: Our Return Trip

After reaching the end of Route 66 in Los Angeles, it was time to point the truck east and begin the journey back toward our home base in the Chicago suburbs. Rather than retracing our steps as quickly as possible, we used the return trip to revisit a few favorite stops and explore some Route 66 attractions we had missed on the drive west.

This stretch of our Route 66 road trip took us through the California desert and into northern Arizona, with plenty of classic diners, quirky roadside attractions, historic towns, and iconic Mother Road landmarks along the way. From Bottle Tree Ranch and Bagdad Cafe to Seligman, Williams, and a few wonderfully weird surprises in between, this week was a reminder that even after driving all 2,400+ miles of Route 66, there’s always something new to discover.

Day 1: Back on the Mother Road

After our few days in Los Angeles, where we officially reached the end of Route 66, it was time to turn around and start heading back east. We followed Route 66 back toward our home base in the Chicago suburbs, using the return trip to revisit some favorite spots and check off a few places we had missed on the drive west. We moved at a much quicker pace this time, but we still made room for some classic Route 66 stops.

Emma Jean’s Holland Burger Cafe

Our first stop of the day was lunch at Emma Jean’s Holland Burger Cafe in Victorville. When people ask Josh what his favorite part of Route 66 was, his answer is always the diners, and Emma Jean’s is exactly the kind of place he’s talking about. It’s a small-town diner that’s retro simply because it’s been around for decades, not because it’s trying to look vintage. The food was delicious, the prices were reasonable, and it had exactly the kind of welcoming atmosphere we love finding along the Mother Road. It was even featured on Diners, Drive-Ins and Dives, which made it feel like an even more fitting stop.

Elmer’s Bottle Tree Ranch

Next, we made our way to one of my favorite Route 66 attractions in California: Elmer’s Bottle Tree Ranch in Oro Grande. Created by Elmer Long and now cared for by his son, this free roadside art installation is packed with hundreds of towering “trees” made from old bottles, scrap metal, and other found objects. It’s quirky, colorful, and wonderfully creative, the kind of place where I could easily spend an hour wandering around with my camera. Homemade roadside art is one of my favorite parts of Route 66, and Bottle Tree Ranch is one of the best examples you’ll find anywhere along the route.

That evening we settled into Calico Ghost Town Campground, a San Bernardino County campground next to the famous ghost town. We found it to be a peaceful and surprisingly quiet place to spend the night, making it a great stop before continuing our journey east.

Day 2: Ghost Towns, Roadside Oddities, and Route 66 Icons

Sunday was a full adventure day with a little bit of everything that makes Route 66 so much fun.

Calico Ghost Town

We started by exploring Calico Ghost Town, which was especially convenient since admission was included with our campground stay. Calico began as a booming silver mining town in the 1880s before becoming a true ghost town after the mines closed. Years later, Walter Knott of Knott’s Berry Farm purchased and restored the town as a tourist attraction before eventually donating it to San Bernardino County. It’s definitely touristy these days, but there’s still plenty of history to appreciate, and we enjoyed wandering around the old buildings and mining town streets.

Liberty Sculpture Park

Our next stop ended up being one of the most unexpected places of our entire Route 66 trip: Liberty Sculpture Park. I simply told Josh to put the name into the GPS without giving him any context, so he was more than a little surprised when we pulled into an anti-Chinese Communist Party-themed sculpture park in the middle of the California desert. The park was created by sculptor Chen Weiming to memorialize the victims of communism and raise awareness of human rights abuses. It was certainly not something either of us expected to find along Route 66.

Original Del Taco Location

While we were in the area, we also stopped by the original Del Taco location in Barstow. Opened in 1961 by Ed Hackbarth, the building now houses The Burger Den and was closed during our visit, but it was still neat to see where the restaurant chain got its start.

Bagdad Cafe

From there, we followed an older alignment of Route 66 into Newberry Springs to visit the famous Bagdad Cafe. The cafe became internationally known after serving as the filming location for the 1987 German movie Bagdad Cafe. We had already visited the Last Tree of Bagdad, the remains of the real town that inspired the film, earlier in the trip, so it was fun to finally see the cafe itself. We even watched the movie later that evening, which made the visit even more enjoyable.

Route 66 Mother Road Museum

Our main destination for the day was Barstow’s Route 66 Mother Road Museum, located inside the beautifully restored Casa del Desierto Harvey House. Ever since our Grand Canyon trip last fall, I’ve become a little obsessed with Harvey Houses, so I was excited to add another one to the list. We had to wait a few minutes for the volunteer with the key to arrive, but it gave us a chance to chat with some fellow Route 66 travelers. The museum itself is fairly small, but it’s free to visit and does a nice job highlighting the history of the Mother Road.

Big Fire Helmet

Before calling it a day, we made a quick stop at the Big Fire Helmet, which was exactly what it sounds like, grabbed groceries at Walmart, and then headed back to Yermo for dinner at the iconic Peggy Sue’s 50’s Diner.

Peggy Sue’s 50’s Diner

Peggy Sue’s is one of the classic Route 66 restaurants, complete with a colorful jukebox-inspired entrance and plenty of vintage memorabilia. It was busy enough that we spent some time waiting in the original diner building, which now serves as the gift shop. The atmosphere was exactly what you’d hope for from a Route 66 diner, but the food didn’t quite live up to the hype. It wasn’t bad, just pretty average for the price. We’d still stop again someday, but mostly for a milkshake, dessert, or just to soak in the nostalgic atmosphere.

Day 3: Seligman

After two nights in Yermo, we crossed the California-Arizona state line and continued east to Seligman, Arizona, one of the most famous Route 66 towns on the entire Mother Road. We spent two nights here, giving us a chance to slow down a bit and revisit one of our favorite Route 66 communities. Seligman is best known as the town that inspired Radiator Springs in Pixar’s Cars, but it’s also famous for the role it played in preserving Route 66. More on that tomorrow.

Roadkill Cafe

We kept our first evening simple and headed to dinner at the well-known Roadkill Cafe. Despite the name, no actual roadkill is served here, just classic diner fare with plenty of Route 66 humor. I was happy to add another Route 66 passport stamp to my collection while we were there, but much like Peggy Sue’s the night before, we thought the food was decent without quite living up to the price. Still, it’s one of those classic Route 66 experiences that’s fun to check off the list.

Day 4: Exploring the Birthplace of Route 66’s Revival

Since we were only in Seligman during the workweek, Josh took an extended lunch break on Tuesday so we could spend a couple of hours exploring downtown together. Like so many towns along Route 66, Seligman’s economy took a huge hit when Interstate 40 bypassed the community. The difference is that Seligman didn’t quietly fade away. Local barber Angel Delgadillo helped organize the movement to preserve Route 66, eventually leading to Arizona becoming the first state to designate Historic Route 66. His efforts are a huge part of why Route 66 tourism exists today.

And judging by the crowds, that effort definitely paid off.

Even on a random Tuesday afternoon, downtown Seligman was absolutely packed with visitors. We wandered in and out of gift shops, admired all the vintage signs and classic cars, and took far too many photos (if there is such a thing).

Delgadillo’s Snow Cap

Of course, no visit to Seligman would be complete without stopping at Delgadillo’s Snow Cap, the quirky burger stand opened by Angel’s brother, Juan Delgadillo, in 1953. The Snow Cap is famous for its practical jokes, colorful decorations, and Route 66 charm. We stopped in for a sweet treat before heading back to work, and it ended up being one of our favorite little stops in town.

Seligman has become one of our favorite Route 66 towns. It’s touristy, sure, but it still feels authentic. The businesses embrace Route 66 history instead of feeling manufactured, and it’s easy to see why so many travelers consider it a must-stop destination on the Mother Road.

Day 5: A Stop in Williams

Wednesday was another travel day as we made the short drive from Seligman to Williams, Arizona, where we stayed for the next two nights. Williams is best known as the gateway to Grand Canyon National Park, but since we had visited the Grand Canyon just a few months earlier, we decided to spend our time exploring the town itself instead. Like Seligman, Williams has done an incredible job preserving its Route 66 heritage, with historic storefronts, vintage signs, and plenty of local businesses lining the main street.

Williams Visitor Center

Our first stop was the Williams Visitor Center so I could add another stamp to my Route 66 passport. After that, we spent some time wandering through downtown, browsing the gift shops and admiring the classic Route 66 atmosphere. There are lots of restaurants, souvenir shops, and old buildings to explore, making it an easy place to spend an afternoon without any real agenda.

We stayed at the Grand Canyon Railway RV Park, which ended up being one of our favorite parts of the visit. The campground is within easy walking distance of downtown, so we never had to worry about parking or driving back and forth. Being able to leave the truck at camp and simply walk into town made the whole experience much more relaxing.

Day 6: A Quiet Day in Williams

Thursday was intentionally a slower day.

Josh had to work late, so we kept our plans simple. We walked back into town so I could mail a postcard, I caught up on laundry while taking advantage of the campground’s nice facilities, and we spent the rest of the day relaxing around camp.

Not every day on a three-month road trip has to be packed with sightseeing, and honestly, those quieter days are part of what makes full-time travel sustainable. Sometimes it’s nice to slow down, take care of the everyday tasks, and enjoy a peaceful afternoon before getting back on the road again.

More Of Our Route 66 Adventures

You can find all our Route 66 blog posts, including trip itineraries, campground reviews, activity guides, and more here: